6D OEI Installation Manual

Installation Information

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Welcome to EX2 Tech Tips. The following is an overview for the proper installation of EX2’s RF Modulated CD Changer 6D OEI™. Please feel free to contact EX2 with any questions or concerns. We would love to here from you!

Before you get started, disconnect your negative battery terminal (FYI, you should perform this task before any type of installation).

Suspending the changer from the bottom of the rear deck (inside the trunk) is the most popular method of installation. Keeping your components both hidden and out of the way is a major plus any installation.

If you have decided to go with the trunk mount method, ensure all mounting surfaces are strong enough to support the weight of the Changer. A time saving suggestion is to try to enlist a second pair of hands.

That friend that owes you a favor is the recruit of choice!

Ask your helper to hold the changer in place* while you insert the self-tapping screws (included in your installation parts). When working in the trunk be sure to tape over the latch so you won't

become trapped inside accidentally. Remember to always leave your keys outside of the trunk, not in your pocket! Don’t laugh, 300 installers a year get hopelessly locked in trunks nationwide every year. I have no idea if this is true, however, I am sure it happened more than once!

Precautions:

*One other thing to look out for when you're mounting your changer in this location: Make sure it won't interfere with the torsion bar spring of the trunk lid. Observe how it moves as you close the lid before you settle on the exact mounting spot.

*No matter where you put the changer, you'll want to make sure you know what you're screwing the mounting screws into. Don’t wait for the repair bill to find out where your fuel tank or brake lines are. Also, check to see that there's enough space for the magazine to be smoothly inserted and removed.

Running the cable:

If you're mounting your CD changer in the trunk, you will need to run the changer's signal/controller cable from the changer to the in-dash receiver. We suggest you run this cable down the passenger side of your car. (If you also have an amplifier in the trunk, run the CD changer cables on the side opposite the amp's 12-volt power cable.)

In most cars, you'll be able to find a hole or crevice to slide the cable from the trunk into the passenger compartment. (You may have to remove the rear seat to find it.) If you're having trouble with this (or any other aspect of your installation), refer to the many vehicle reference manuals available at your local auto parts stores, your local auto sound dealer, or feel free to call EX2’s technical service department. You will find our number on your product manual.

To hide the cable beneath your carpeting, you will have to remove the door sill ( the plastic thingie connecting the carpet to the door frame). As you pass the cable along the floorboard, make sure it doesn't sit too close to a seat rail. This could cause the cable to be pinched or damaged when the seat is adjusted. When ever possible, use the "tracks" under the carpet that encases the vehicle factory wiring.

If you're running the cable up the driver's side, you'll want to make sure it doesn't end up in the way of the pedals or hood latch. Tie it firmly in place with wire ties and coil up any excess cable, so it won't fall on your feet as you drive.

Once you have gotten your cable to your "radio area" it is time to begin the RF installation.

In this installation will need to identify two 12-volt power wires. One goes to a constant source of power and the other goes to a switched 12-volt source. You will also need to hook up a "ground" wire, this wire will be secured beneath a nearby screw or connector that makes contact with the metal body of the vehicle.

Wire definitions:

Switched power = Power wire that only receives 12-14.4 volts then your cars ignition is "switched" on. In GM vehicles for example, this is one of the yellow wires.

Constant power = Power connection that has "constant" 12-14.4 volts regardless of the position of the key. Again, being a GM lover, this is one of the orange wires on the back of the radio.

Ground = A bit more complicated to explain, this is the wire that will show the same continuity as that of the vehicles chassis. In a nutshell, it is the same as the negative terminal of your car battery.

6D OEI Wire colors:

Constant = RF Modulator wire color = Yellow

Switched = RF Modulator wire color = Red

Ground = RF Modulator wire color =Black

Wire identification process:

Time for Digital voltmeter 101. Do not take this lightly, it is very important you use a Digital VoltMeter, and read all documentation accompanying it (sorry, you have to read the manual)!

Step 1 Set you meter to the VDC mode

Step 2 Attach the black lead of your meter to a vehicle chassis (grounding) point. Any bare metal part of the vehicle body will do

Step 3 Using the red lead of the meter; begin probing wires until you readout shows 12 to 14.4 volts. Once found, refer to the power definitions above, connect your wires together, and begin your search for the second wire. Remember that switched power only shows voltage when the ignition is turned on. The connection of choice is strip and solder, but what ever method you choose to use, make sure all bare connections are completely covered with UL listed black electrical tape (available at any hardware store). Sorry, no Duct or scotch tape permitted!

Step 4 Finally; connect your CD Changer ground wire to any bare metal body panel in the vehicle. You may also attach this wire to the back of the radio chassis (the metal box of the radio). Use the existing screws only!

Another cable needed to be run is the antenna input which goes from the Hideaway Unit (RF modulator) to the antenna input of your in-dash radio. If this leaves a lot of slack in your antenna lead, tie it off so it won't fall down and interfere with your pedals. There are two antenna cables on your modulator. These cables only fit one way, one into your radio, the other into the antenna lead for the vehicle. (If your antenna connection looks nothing like the one on the modulator, consult your local auto sound dealer, an adapter may be required.)

Well the light at the end of the tunnel is getting close, all that is left is to hide the RF Modulator, and plug in the controller and Changer. Please refer to your manual for these connections. Again, remember that everything only plugs in one place. Rules to live by, don’t force anything, read your manual, and enjoy the $75.00 bucks you kept in your pocket installing this yourself. Congratulations on your successful endeavor!!!

Please feel free to email all comments and questions to EX2support@philanet.com or EX2 Mobile Electronics, 705 Old Westtown Rd. Suite G. West Chester, Pa. 19382 . We would love to hear from you.

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